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Ingredients Innovation April

01 May 2014

This month’s newsletter provides a brief insight into ingredients used in products marketed as ‘beauty within’ products. To gain a better insight, Canadean Ingredients are offering clients the opportunity to attend a webinar where our team of experts will be able to provide a more in depth analysis of the ingredients featured in this newsletter. The event will take place on 3rd June 2014 from 9:30am to 9:45am GMT. To register your interest click on the following link: Ingredients Innovation Webinar.Upon registration you will receive a unique link that will enable you to join the webinar on the day.

Ingredients trends of the month – Skin care from within 

The current trend among product manufacturers offering ‘beauty within’ products relates to ancient traditions of improving appearance through nutrition. These concepts are particularly attractive for aging consumers facing wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity.

Some of the most prospect ingredients for this category are

Gotu Kola has been used in Asian folk medicine for hundreds of years, but in recent years scientific evidence indicates that it can be used in the treatment of small wounds, photo-aging skin, cellulite, and stretch marks. Studies suggest that triterpenes are the main active components responsible for skin healing by stimulating production of type I collagen and myofibroblast, and decreasing inflammatory reactions.

Another ingredient is derived from the South East Asian salad plant Kesum, which has a high content of Quercitrin delivering antioxidant properties that are used for anti-aging products, and have traditionally been nicknamed “AwetMuda” in Malaysia, which means “Preserving Youth”.

Ceramides have gained the attention of consumers in recent years for improving clinical signs associated with dry skin; providing skin rejuvenation and hydration. Ceramides are specific lipid components of the skin, representing 40% of the intercellular cement that binds cells together, and contributes to skin hydration. Consuming ceramide rich ingredients such as wheat extracts have been shown to effectively replace the ceramides lost through normal cell shedding, skin damage, and aging.

Amla and Aloe Vera have long been used as traditional medicine for a host of curative purposes. Both are rich dietary sources of vitamin C and contain various phenolic compounds, which give rise to high antioxidant capacity. It has been shown that Aloe Vera decreases the rate of vitamin C absorption but increases the bioavailability of both vitamin C and E. Amla extract has shown the ability to induce the production of procollagen as well as inhibit UVB-induced photo-aging in skin cells. These results indicate Amla and Aloe Vera have the potential to be part of the ‘beauty within’ products.

Collagen is a structural component of several tissues in the body, including skin. With advancing age the production of collagen is reduced and the organisation of the protein changes, resulting in reduced skin elasticity. In recent years, studies have indicated that consumption of collagen peptides may improve skin elasticity, hydration. and skin roughness. It has been suggested that when collagen peptides are ingested and degraded it facilitates delivery of the amino acid Hydroxyproline, which acts as a false signal of the destruction of collagen and triggers the re-organisation and synthesis of collagen fibres. Hydroxyproline peptides have also been shown to increase the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, a molecule with unique capacity in retaining water.

Additionally, vitamin C has collagen enhancing effects, indicating it can also be used as an anti-aging agent and The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has approved the health claim that vitamin C ‘contributes towards normal collagen formation for the normal function of skin’. Other vitamins and minerals, such as biotin, copper, iodine, niacin, riboflavin (Vitamin B2), zinc, and vitamin A, also have EFSA approved claims relating to the ‘maintenance of normal skin’.

Ingredient trend: Health and beauty beverages 

Ingredients Innovation April

The borderline between rehydration concepts in general also creates a grey zone between this drink type and sports drinks, and general recovery drinks for the day after a happy evening. Among beauty drinks available in various markets, there are various geographical differences.Whereas collagen drinks have been established in the US, albeit still at low pace, and mainly as sports drinks. ingredients such as Aloe Vera are more established within Asia and Europe. However, most beauty drinks are very complex formulations, containing a unique diversity of fruits, berries, extracts, vitamins, and minerals.

Within Canadean Ingredients, we have observed that Asia has a more perceived approach to consumer beauty communication, and ingredients such as Hawthorn, Aloe Vera, and Sea Buckthorn represent significant growth rates ranging from 21.5% to 31.4%. In Europe, Aloe Vera has especially taken off such as the Doshirak range, Nestea, and Santal among others.

For example drinks such as Aura (Estonia) kiwi-apple-orange-lemon-lime juice concentrates (10%); sugar; aloe vera juice; vitamins; chlorophyll copper complex, and Provitamin A beta-carotene and Michel Beauty Colada (Switzerland), containing pineapple juice concentrate (15%), sugar, milk, coconut juice (2%), milk cream, aloe vera (0.5%), vitamin C, and biotin, are examples on other markets.

Recent launches represent examples such as  “OCOO” Beauty drink (Germany):  Super berries, provitamin A, vitamins (B1, B3, and C),  zinc, selenium, copper, iodine or  “ContrexBeaute” (France): orange, guava and raspberry and carrot juice, wheat germ extract (0.1%), vitamin C, beta-carotene. 

Partnerships 

Canadean Ingredients is seeking partnership with ingredients companies who are willing to provide more information on their company and ingredients portfolio. This is to help gather information that is not readily available to us and to boost the market analysis of the ingredients and companies we profile. If you are interested, please send brochures, press releases, white papers, or MSDS to ingredients@canadean.com

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